If you have ever spent an afternoon browsing through a specialty embroidery shop, you have likely found yourself staring at the stunning displays of au ver a soie silk thread. There is something about the way the light hits those little skeins that makes regular cotton floss look a bit dull by comparison. For anyone who stitches, whether you are into cross-stitch, needlepoint, or intricate goldwork, discovering this French brand usually marks a turning point in your crafting life. It is the kind of material that makes you feel like you are part of a long-standing tradition of artisans, even if you are just sitting on your couch in your pajamas.
A Bit of History Behind the Brand
It is hard to talk about this thread without mentioning its roots. Au Ver à Soie has been around since 1820, and the fact that it is still a family-run business in the heart of Paris is just cool. When you pick up a spool of their silk, you aren't just getting a mass-produced product; you are getting something that has been refined over centuries.
They've managed to survive the rise of synthetic fibers and the decline of the traditional garment industry by sticking to what they do best: producing the highest quality silk in the world. Knowing that the same company provided silk for haute couture houses and historic restorations makes pulling that thread through your fabric feel a lot more special.
Why Silk Beats Cotton Every Time
I get it—cotton is cheap, reliable, and available at every big-box craft store. But once you try au ver a soie silk thread, it is really hard to go back. Silk has a natural luster that cotton just can't replicate. It doesn't look "shiny" in a cheap, plastic sort of way; it has a deep, inner glow.
Beyond the looks, the "hand" of the thread—how it feels in your fingers—is completely different. It is smoother and less abrasive. If you've ever had your fingers get sore from pulling heavy cotton through tight canvas all day, you will notice the difference immediately. Silk glides. It's also surprisingly strong. People think silk is fragile because it feels soft, but it's actually one of the strongest natural fibers out there.
Decoding the Different Types
One thing that can be a bit overwhelming when you first look at their catalog is the variety. They don't just make one type of "silk thread." Depending on what you're making, you'll need to choose the right variety.
Soie d'Alger
This is probably the most popular choice for most hobbyists. It is a stranded silk, meaning it's made of seven plies that you can split apart, much like you do with standard embroidery floss. However, unlike cotton floss, it doesn't pill or fray as easily. It's perfect for cross-stitch and needlepoint because it covers the fabric beautifully. It has a slightly matte finish compared to other silks, but it still has that characteristic "glow."
Soie de Paris
If you want something with a bit more high-octane shine, Soie de Paris is the way to go. It is a filament silk, which means it's made of long, continuous strands. This gives it a very smooth, reflective surface. It's a bit more "fidgety" to work with than Soie d'Alger because it's so smooth, but the results for fine detail work or satin stitching are absolutely breathtaking.
Soie Perlée
This one is a twisted silk. You don't split this; you use it as is. It has a beautiful, rope-like texture that sits on top of the fabric. I love using this for decorative borders or when I want a bit of a 3D effect in my embroidery. Because it is twisted so tightly, it is incredibly durable and doesn't snag easily.
Working with Silk Without Losing Your Mind
If you are new to using au ver a soie silk thread, there are a couple of things you should know so you don't end up with a tangled mess. First off, silk has a "memory." If it's been wrapped around a card or a spool for a long time, it might want to kink up.
A pro tip is to cut your lengths a bit shorter than you would with cotton. About 18 inches is the sweet spot. Silk can be sensitive to the oils on your skin and any rough patches on your fingers. If you have a hangnail, the silk will find it. I usually keep a bit of high-quality hand cream nearby (just make sure it's fully absorbed before you touch the thread!) to keep my skin smooth so the thread doesn't snag.
Another thing to keep in mind is the "grain" of the thread. If you run the thread between your fingers, one direction will feel slightly smoother than the other. Always try to thread your needle so that the smooth direction is what's going through the fabric first. It sounds like a tiny detail, but it really helps prevent fraying over the course of a long project.
The Incredible Color Palette
We have to talk about the colors. Au Ver à Soie offers hundreds of shades, and the way they dye their silk results in colors that are incredibly rich. Because silk takes dye differently than cotton, you get these subtle variations in tone that add so much depth to a finished piece.
I've found that their greens and blues, in particular, are unlike anything else. They have a vibrancy that makes floral patterns look almost alive. If you are working on a reproduction sampler or something that needs a vintage feel, their range of "antique" shades is spot on. They don't look artificial; they look like they've aged naturally over a hundred years.
Is It Worth the Price?
Let's be real: silk is more expensive than cotton. You can buy a dozen skeins of DMC for the price of one or two skeins of Au Ver à Soie. So, is it worth it?
In my opinion, absolutely.
Think about how many hours you spend on a single project. If you are going to put fifty or a hundred hours of your life into a piece of art, why wouldn't you want to use the best possible materials? The finished result is just on another level. Plus, because silk has better coverage, you often find you don't need quite as much of it as you would with cotton. It's an investment in the longevity and beauty of your work.
Where to Use It
While you can use au ver a soie silk thread for almost anything, it really shines in specific types of projects.
- Needlepoint: Using Soie d'Alger on canvas is a dream. It fills the holes perfectly and doesn't get "hairy" the way wool sometimes can.
- Linen Embroidery: If you are working on fine linen, the delicacy of the silk matches the fabric beautifully.
- Goldwork and Surface Embroidery: This is where the high-shine varieties like Soie de Paris really come into play. It adds that touch of luxury that defines high-end needlework.
- Repairing Heirlooms: If you have an old piece of family embroidery that needs a bit of TLC, using the same type of thread the original artist used is the best way to respect the piece.
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, stitching is supposed to be a tactile, enjoyable experience. Using au ver a soie silk thread turns a hobby into a sensory experience. The way it feels, the way it looks under a lamp at night, and the history it carries all add layers of enjoyment to the process.
If you haven't tried it yet, I'd suggest picking up just one skein in your favorite color. Use it for a small accent in your next project. I'm willing to bet that once you see that first silk stitch sitting perfectly on your fabric, you'll be hooked. There is just no substitute for the real deal, and when it comes to silk, the French really do know what they're doing. Happy stitching!